Strict Standards: Non-static method phpbb_feed_factory::init() should not be called statically in /home/watchrepair/public_html/feed.php on line 66
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /feed.php on line 171: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /feed.php:66)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /feed.php on line 172: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /feed.php:66) A Watch Repair Help Discussion Forum 2012-07-13T00:13:32+01:00 2012-07-13T00:13:32+01:00 <![CDATA[Looking For An Answer • Re: Which is the right replacement main spring ?]]>
I found another UK website that list its springs in a different way that i could understand :D
They have a minimum order of 10 pounds :(
I do need a new hair spring to go onto a plate escapement (which they sell)
Even if i have to pay 3x the price for a new plate escapement it will be a lot cheaper than the 400 pounds a ship wanted my sister to pay for the repair the clock.

If I can not drill 4 holes into a plate in the same place as in the old one I would never have been much of a toolmaker.

Statistics: Posted by Stuart — Fri Jul 13, 2012 12:13 am

2012-07-13T00:01:38+01:00 <![CDATA[Looking For An Answer • Re: pocket watch hands pivot broch]]>
This should work if your watch hand you have is a punched hole and not a punched and drawn. (the metal around the hole looks like a top hat with a hole in both ends)

The old way of doing this would be a D reamer.

This would be a metal bar of the size you need and then file a flat onto one side about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way through.

The flat you have filed would produce a small sharp edge or even make a small bur that would cut the hole to size.

This was often done on things not as small or as thin as a second hand on a watch but if the pin was tapered first it would give you a bit of lead into the hole and also give you the chance to make an interference fit (push fit )which is what you want. and put the D reamer into a pin vise and run it by hand bit by bit and check to see if it fits.


I would try and taper the D reamer 0.003" to the inch and have the D reamers maximum size the same size you need the finished hole to be. If you need the hole to be any bigger you can always use a file and put a small bur onto the D reamer making it cut just that bit bigger.

If you don't have a micrometer i wouldn't even try this method
I sawing needle should work and can be polished down in an electric drill and rubbed with an oil stone.

If anyone ells would like to comment on the use of a D reamer for this type of problem please do. It would be interested in your comments and ideas

Statistics: Posted by Stuart — Fri Jul 13, 2012 12:01 am

2012-07-09T19:03:48+01:00 <![CDATA[Looking For An Answer • Which is the right replacement main spring ?]]>
I am sort of new to all this but i do have a background in Engineering as I did a toolmakers apprenticeship.

I have inherited some clocks and watches that are in various conditions, slowly I am getting them all to work again.

I have a Duward wrist watch with a small second hand a the bottom so not very expensive I think. But the main spring has snapped

the spring is 0.127mm think 1.74mm wide and about 360mm long (ish) and sites into a spring housing of about 12 mm

I cant find a the Duward in a list of main spring but lost of generic types but I don't really understand what the numbers they use mean in relation to the size I need to replace it with. See website below ... 53_60.html

At 2.50 for a new spring I'm not going to try and make a 1mm x 2mm punch to put a new hole into what is left of the spring even if its only 30mm shorter.

Any help would be much appreciated, as there is also likely to be other questions about other watches I have like a Brev s.g.d.g cyma which needs a new balance wheel and hair spring and probably a new main spring as well as its going to be blued steel.
Also I have an Leonidas GSTP with a broken screw in the clicker. I would like to get it out and replaced as the watch seems to run fine given the fact it was last used in 1948 or 1950.

Statistics: Posted by Stuart — Mon Jul 09, 2012 7:03 pm

2012-07-05T10:46:25+01:00 <![CDATA[Looking For An Answer • Re: Unable to contact on the phone - Need order update/cance]]>
Your order is all cancelled and now refunded...

Enjoy your trip and thank you for your kind words.


Statistics: Posted by David — Thu Jul 05, 2012 10:46 am

2012-07-04T12:04:50+01:00 <![CDATA[Looking For An Answer • Re: Unable to contact on the phone - Need order update/cance]]>
I have emailed you direct with a full update.

Kind regards,


Statistics: Posted by David — Wed Jul 04, 2012 12:04 pm

2012-06-06T10:16:32+01:00 <![CDATA[Looking For An Answer • Re: Analogue quartz chrono]]>

P.S.: I'll be back!

Statistics: Posted by Mipi — Wed Jun 06, 2012 10:16 am

2012-06-05T13:28:13+01:00 <![CDATA[Looking For An Answer • Re: Analogue quartz chrono]]> This should set all counters to zero. If not I do believe you pull stem out to second position and depress BOTH pushers at the same time. Also try it at position 1. You will not be able to remove the stem until the little dot depression on the setting lever becomes visible. Try the stem in all the setting positions until the dot becomes visible. ... iyota_OS10

Statistics: Posted by mardan — Tue Jun 05, 2012 1:28 pm

2012-06-05T07:04:00+01:00 <![CDATA[Looking For An Answer • Re: Analogue quartz chrono]]>
Chrono part (at least seconds hand) is working. But I can't reset position to zero. If I pull stem to position 2 (for setting time) it doesn't reset seconds hand while pressing upper button. Instead it starts the chrono, just like the stem is not in "setting" position. Which makes me wonder...I guess pulling and pressing stem should control some sort of switch. In that case it could be that this switch is dirty and IC part of the watch doesn't control properly the watch functions (even timekeeping).

So, it needs to be taken apart, but I have a big problem taking stem out. Pushing on PUSH doesn't release the stem. I don't won't to be a brutal. Will play a bit with this, I guess I have to try in a different stem position.

Hope I'm not boring you with those "child problems". :D


Statistics: Posted by Mipi — Tue Jun 05, 2012 7:04 am

2012-06-04T16:42:32+01:00 <![CDATA[Looking For An Answer • L&R VARIMATIC]]> [color=#BF0080][/color]][/size]looking for a used L&R varimatic watch cleaning machine :| :|

Statistics: Posted by bushlurker1 — Mon Jun 04, 2012 4:42 pm

2012-06-04T13:23:32+01:00 <![CDATA[Looking For An Answer • Re: Analogue quartz chrono]]>

Statistics: Posted by mardan — Mon Jun 04, 2012 1:23 pm

2012-06-04T07:13:34+01:00 <![CDATA[Looking For An Answer • Re: Analogue quartz chrono]]>
Besides, if I take it apart, I can still get new movement later.

P.S.: Is this forum always so attacked by spamers? I hope not.

Statistics: Posted by Mipi — Mon Jun 04, 2012 7:13 am

2012-06-01T16:47:59+01:00 <![CDATA[Looking For An Answer • Re: Analogue quartz chrono]]> .

Statistics: Posted by mardan — Fri Jun 01, 2012 4:47 pm

2012-06-01T10:59:52+01:00 <![CDATA[Looking For An Answer • Analogue quartz chrono]]>
But, I'm very much into DIY waters and did repair many item which were labeled as "trow away". Right now I'm playing with one my very old watch, which for some reason didn't find its way to trash bin. It is Osco Quartz with Miyota 0510 movement inside. It doesn't run. I noticed that current stays on the same low level; there are no "one second" peaks. But when I press chrono start button, suddenly those peaks are detected, but chrono is not working. Which tells me that IC part and chrono coil are OK.

Now my question. Is it possible that for proper chrono operation the timekeeping part must be functioning, too? I've read something on synchronization of timekeeping and chrono part of the watch. That would somehow make sense.

I have a papers on 0510 and taking it apart wouldn't be much of loss anyway.


Statistics: Posted by Mipi — Fri Jun 01, 2012 10:59 am

2012-05-21T19:16:42+01:00 <![CDATA[Looking For An Answer • Re: Advice requested, Tag Heuer Formula 1 Alarm model WAC111]]>

Statistics: Posted by mardan — Mon May 21, 2012 7:16 pm

2012-05-15T00:37:30+01:00 <![CDATA[Looking For An Answer • Advice requested, Tag Heuer Formula 1 Alarm model WAC111A -]]> Tag Heuer Formula 1 Alarm model WAC111A - BA0850

I've had my watch for 6 years, then the battery died and i left in its box for about a year after finding out about official Tag battery replacement prices. Just had battery replaced by reputable watchmaker (first time its ever been opened) and now he seems to think the movement to be dead. Although I can manually wind and the alarm will still chirp. the traditional watchmaker I used, seemed to think my watch was quite rare and had never seen one with the digital internals for alarm etc. he lubed up some parts and tried to move some internals but none seemed to want to move on their own. He also put it on some type of machine to hear the watches 'pulse' to confirm it was dead.
Anyone know if this is a common fault?
Can I replace/order the internals to make it work as the watch has sentimental value?
Any suggestions greatly welcomed :)

Statistics: Posted by Funk — Tue May 15, 2012 12:37 am